Got An Issue With My Wr125x

Discussion in 'WR125X WR125R Discussions' started by AhamaY, Oct 11, 2013.

  1. Okay so last Thursday I was riding home from Uni going up a slight incline and heard a loud pop (like a balloon but a little deeper) sounded like it was right behind me (no cars where around me or people it was quite late in the afternoon) so I was thinking a little back fire from the exhaust or something can't quite remember if I decelerated a little or not.

    All was fine until about 10 miles later, I was taking my exit off a roundabout, once off the roundabout I accelerated and a few seconds later my bike started to shudder as if it was cutting out like I hit the rev limiter but the speed was no where near when I would usually shift gear, The only way to stop this shudder is to shift up a gear it only seems to happen high in gears 3, 4, 5 and anywhere over 60 - 62 mph.

    Went to my local dealership and told them my issue and they thought it might be a clutch issue, they think the clutch is slipping when under load but doesn't clutch slipping mean that the RPM's increase but road speed doesn't, I'm not ruling it out just going by what I've read online so far, and my issue is that once it starts to "shudder" I can't go any faster or get past the "shuddering" it 's as if my rev limiter has some how changed to a lower rev range or something, not suggesting that's possible I have no clue, just trying to describe best as I can what it's like.:)

    Another thing I have come across in my search for this issue is valve clearance or wear, took my bike to get looked at by the dealer ship they had someone take it for a road test, they checked, adjusted and lubricated the clutch cable and ticked most checks and lubricates on the check list I have received but the bike has still got this problem, the only check/adjust box that isn't ticked off is the valve clearances.

    Does anyone know what this issue could be any help is appreciated Thank You.

  2. valve clearence won't do that. that if it isn't the clutch, then it should be some fuel delivery system or your ECU. honestly never had a problem with my wr, and never heard of a problem similar to that.

  3. Thanks for your reply, yeah when I had it checked at the dealership they said it looked like the previous owner abused it.
    Just a note as well my WR125X is a 2010 and at 9150 miles

  4. it's comon to see wr125 with engine falling because of bad owners; no warm up, over reving, crusing at high rpm, etc... mine in 25000KM never changed the valve clerance, it will check out next summer. but your problem could be a fuel delivery system, like ECU, injectors... try buying a injector cleaner and try that, maybe it could fix the problem, or change to full synthetic oil ;)

  5. Okay I'm back again this time more issues so I've been to the dealer ship a few more times the issue with it "shuddering" seems to have gone now, but I had to take my bike in once again yesterday because while I was out riding the engine cut off twice but started right back up again each time it died the engine management light came on.
    I had to leave it at the dealership yesterday and picked it up about an hour ago, they changed the suppressor cap and removed the fault codes but on the way home it cut off twice both while I was stopped at a junction indicating but no engine management light this time.
    when it dies the lights are still on it's just the engine that goes off it has also happened once or twice when i've been moving and not indicating.
    To get it started again I have to turn the ignition off then back on, stick the bike into neutral and it starts up again, sometimes it can take a bit for it to start again but haven't had it not start up again yet, the engine management light flashes when the bike cuts off and stays lit until i turn the bike off and back on, then it is no longer there any thoughts? Thanks
  6. Blazer

    Blazer Member

    Change the plug cap. I have a 2010 wrr same problem found out by accident when I replaced the spark plug the plug lead just came out of the cap. Pull on the plug lead and if it pulls out of plug cap then that is the problem. It will still run if you push the lead back in as the spark will jump the gap but at high revs the vibration will make the gap open. Stick an ngk cap on they look better anyway.
    This seems to be a common problem with the original cap as quite a lot of people have had to change it, the screw that holds the lead and cap together snaps off. Hopefully this finally sorts it.

  7. Thanks for the tip Blazer the plug cap being the cap that goes over the spark plug? The dealership changed that if I'm correct that's the suppressor cap and it still cut out on the way home I have to commute later anyway so I'll get to see if anything happens but I'll quickly check the spark plug and cap make sure it's all fine.
  8. Blazer

    Blazer Member

    Yep just give it a check it's quick and easy and could well be the problem, as I said exactly the same thing was happening to me, it was a nightmare getting stuck in heavy city traffic and the engine suddenly cutting out. If they have replaced it with an original cap with a weak screw thread it is possible it has snapped off again.

  9. Cap seems fine went to uni yesterday total commute of 62 miles there and back all fine no issues, went out today for 20 mile trip there and back to local town centre and the bike cut out twice again on the way home this time though it took quite some time to start up.
    first time it cut out I'd say about 2 minutes to start it up mostly standing around trying to start it every now and then, the engine management light is now back it just blinks at random intervals when the bike cuts out, second time it cut out which was just down the road was because I had to stop at some light's as soon as I pulled the clutch in it cut out. pushed the bike up onto the path tried starting but didn't want to, pushed it for a very short time not even 3 minutes tried it again and it started but then just a little distance down the road I came to yet another junction pulled the clutch in and it cut out again this time I pushed the bike for a good few miles trying to start it every now and then with no luck until I stopped, stood around for a minute and voilĂ  started up and didn't cut out again even when I had to pull the clutch in. It all just seems completely random taken a few pictures of my cap that the dealership has put on but it all seems fine anyway. 20131018_144403.jpg 20131018_144511.jpg

  10. i think your bike is drowning your spark plug, that seems too much fuel, and when you pull the clutch, that quick change of rpm's, is drowning your plug. do you have the right plug?
  11. Blazer

    Blazer Member

    You seem to be looking at the wrong end, you should unscrew it from the lead to check the screw thread. Here's a pic. 20131019_070416.jpg detach the rubber cap and check. 20131019_070201.jpg if everything is fine then it may be your battery running low or a loose battery conection. It's worth giving these a check first as they are easy and quick jobs to do. If your problem is niether of these then it will probably be a lose wire on the kill switch. Another easy and quick thing to check. If the engine warning light comes on it will be almost sure to be an electrical problem. If your bike was running to rich you would smell petrol.

  12. Thanks again, I checked the battery and the connections are fine, I checked the kick stand switch yesterday and checked the connection that seemed fine too I might try and bypass the kickstand if I can. Took the spark plug cap off checked the spark plug and unscrewed the cap, when looking at the spark plug I could smell petrol not sure if that is normal or not though.
    20131019_124920.jpg 20131019_130422.jpg

  13. blazer a kill switch system seems too be the problem like you say, but it doesn't make sense that it only kill's the engine when he pulls the clutch in.
    Blazer likes this.
  14. Blazer

    Blazer Member

    True if its the kick stand, he didn't say it only happened when the clutch was pulled in, I meant the red kill switch on the handlebars, it may have been a coincidence it happened when he pulled the cluch in. I have heard of similar symptoms which were tracked down to a loose wire on the switch. It is just a simple check to eliminate it., tbh there isn't much left to check the next thing I would check is the ht lead connection to the coil and keep following it back looking for any bad connections or water intrusion..If he does have to take it back to the dealer at least he will know whats not a problem. The plug looks fine and they have changed the cap from the original part. Judging by the spark plug,fueling is ok, if it was running rich the plug would be black and sooty or wet.

  15. in the last topic he said twice when he pulled to a junction, when he pulled the clutch, it mostly isn't a coincidence ;) , and the bike doesn't has to be rich to drown a plug, it can have a faulty map or injector . honestly never heard of faulty spark cap's or wiring problems. good luck solving the problem

  16. I'm sure it's a coincidence I took it out again today after finding out that when the engine management light blinks you can find out the error code by counting the slow and fast blinks, I rode it to see if the bike will cut out and have the engine light come on how ever I noticed that while idling at a junction the RPM's dropped and the bike cut out to prevent it I just had to keep the bike revving lightly. Unfortunately when the bike cut out the engine light didn't come one -.- and I reckon just to make my life worse that light will not come back on >.<, if anyone knows how I can get the light to be displayed so I can count the blinks I might be able to find the issue for the engine management light coming on. I read some thing for cars where you bend a steel paper clip and put it in some specific switch and turn the car on, not sure if there is one for bikes supposedly there is a sequence for a specific bike where you turn the ignition on and off 10 times if there is something similar for the WR hopefully I can solve something :).

  17. Another update which I'm hoping may be tied in with the engine cutting off is that now my brake lights don't work, the light it's self works but it doesn't brighten when the levers are pressed. I had noticed a while ago that when I pressed my rear brake lever it wouldn't brighten but the front did, but now none of them do. As I said I hope this could be the issue with the engine cutting out and I think it could happen because the engine stop switch is located by the front brake light switch, however the rear brake light switch is at the rear. Maybe they are corroded or something or fuses perhaps I don't, might be a long shot need to check the fuses and switches for continuity first I need to get a pocket tester or take it to the dealer ship and ask them to check depends which is cheaper :).
  18. Blazer

    Blazer Member

    It's not related to your problem, it's more than likely a blown filament in the bulb. You will have to take the plastic under tray off to replace it.
    Sorry quick question when you start the bike does the engine turn over slow or rapid.?
    If you can stop it from stalling by reving it a little then it doesn't sound like a kill switch problem. If the engine management light comes on before the engine dies then it sounds like a battery problem. If the battery is running low, at tick over the engine warning light will come on before the engine dies. if you hold it at higher revs the engine light will go out and the engine won't die. Is that what's happening ?

  19. When I start my bike up sometimes it starts up straight away sometimes I have to hold the button down about 2 seconds and it starts up, sometimes when I start the bike up the idle is a little weird but most of the time it just seems normal.
    The other day something new happened was going down a national speed limit, reached 62mph went back down to 60 and the engine cut out and finally the engine light came on so I sat at the side of the road watching the light flash and started counting the blinks there where 4 long and 2 short which in the service manual is error 42 speed sensor.
    Got a multimeter checked all the fuses they are fine, checked the battery voltage that's fine at over 12V and the fluid level in the battery is in the middle of the full and low levels, spent about 4 hours or more on the bike the other day as I went to a new dealership called streetbike in Dudley bike was fine the whole time booked an inspection which will be on the 9th of November need to get the brake light sorted as my MOT runs out on the 30th.
    This filament you say, would that stop the light from working all together or just from brightening up because the light is still working it just doesn't brighten when the levers are pressed and is there anyway of checking by looking at it if it is blown.
  20. Blazer

    Blazer Member

    There are two filaments one for the tail light and one for the brake light, if you take the bulb out you will easily see the one that has broken. It's just a normal standard brake/tail bulb. Ten minute job to do.
    Nice to here you are testing and tracking down the problem if anything you will have learned more about your bike. The speed sensor is on the front wheel hub, if your lucky it's just a loose connection. Don't know why a speed sendor would cut the engine though, a question for a yamaha dealer me thinks.

Share This Page